Add white and red concrete pigment to color your DIY cement planter.
A Pink Colored Cement Planter? Yes! Have you been dying to make colored concrete or cement planters? Sometimes we concrete people need some color in our lives, right? Just adding a bit of pigment can have a big effect on your cement project.
I seriously was dreaming of pink planters and I wouldn’t call myself a ‘girly, girl’, or even close really, but I do actually love pink. I managed to toss some color into another set of planters I made not long ago- my mini Magnetic Cement Succulent Planters and did some subtle marbling effects.
Pocket Guide to Concrete & Cement Mixes For Crafts
This time I wanted to go full-out and do the whole cement planter in one color. Adding pigments to cement is kind of fascinating. If you haven’t read the Concrete and Cement Pigments post yet, I recommend reading that first. If you have read it, you may recall the tests I did showing how much colorant you need to add to achieve best color. Also note that you do reach an actual saturation point where the color can’t get any brighter, darker, pinker, etc. You also risk weakening the cement by adding too much.
This is a nice simple cement planter project, that comes out looking simple and beautiful. Of course, if you aren’t a pink fan, just substitute the pink with any other color. You may or may not want to add white to it.
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DIY Difficulty Level | Easy
Materials For A Colored Cement Planter In Pink
- Cement All, Rapid Set
- Disposable cup
- Disposable bowl
- Plastic grocery bag
- Durable nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- 220 grit sanding block
- Red colorant
- White pigment
- Heat gun (if you have one)
- Drinking straw
- Hot glue gun
- 2 containers
- Weights (tiles, or something else flat and heavy)
Tutorial Steps For How To Make A Colored Cement Planter in Pink!
STEP 1 | Create The Colored Planter Drainage Hole
Heat up the glue gun to a low temp and then cut a ½” piece off the straw and then apply the hot glue to each open end. Now glue one end to the center bottom of the inner mold.
If you use the same containers I have, then the plastic ball half will end up being flush with the top of the outer container, so you won’t have to mark the stopping point. The inner cement mold will just sit right on top of the straw.
If you have different containers, then place your inner mold on top of the straw and mark the location on the inner mold where it stops. You want to make sure it is touching the straw and not smushing it down.
Have you seen my post on the Concrete Pigment Tests? I wrote it after this tutorial and found some other mediums to use. I also played with different ways of coloring cement after it’s cured. I recommend checking it out before starting this portion of the tutorial.
STEP 2 | Mix The Cement Pigment With The Cement
Before diving in to the coloring your planter portion of this, you may find it helpful to read all about my Concrete Pigment tests where I experimented with many different types of concrete pigments and method for coloring. You can catch the Concrete Pigment Tests Post here.
Pour in about 1 ½ cups of cement into the disposable bowl. To get a color similar to mine, add 1 teaspoon of red pigment and 3 teaspoons of white. Mix these together well (I just used my gloved hands). The mixture will appear as though it has very little color, but you will see it has plenty of color once you add water.
*You can test the color to see if it’s the color you want by adding a small bit to another bowl and adding water. Adjust your colors as necessary, but don’t add more than 4 teaspoons of color total or you risk weakening the cement.
STEP 3 | Cast The Colored Cement
When the color is to your liking, add water and mix well, ensuring there are no lumps. Your consistency should be like a wet mud pie. Scoop the cement and colorant mixture into the outer container. Shake and tap to settle the cement and get air bubbles out.
Now take the inner mold and center it within the bowl and push down until it’s flush or until you hit the mark you created as your stopping point. Use something to weigh down the inner mold to keep it in place. You can remove the weights after about 10 minutes if you’d like.
Let the cement cure a minimum of 2 hours. If you want this to be shiny, you should wait about 4 hours. The thicker the sides are, the longer it takes. With the containers I used, to get the cement planter shiny, it would have been at least 4 hours. I demolded after about 2 ½ hours, after it had cooled down, which made it matte instead of shiny.
STEP 4 | Demold The Pink Colored Cement Planter
After your pink planter has cured, use a heat gun to release it. With the containers I used, I was able to pull out the inner mold by hand. For the outer cement mold, I flipped the bowl upside down and placed a towel underneath. Using the heat gun, it took about 10-15 seconds of medium heat for the cement planter to drop down out of the bowl.
FINAL STEP | SAND THE TOP EDGES Of The Pink Planter
Using a 220 grit sanding sponge, sand the top edges to remove anything sharp. Do this as soon as you demold the planter so that it will be easier. The cement continues curing after demolding and it becomes harder.